Why is it always Tuesday on Tumblr?
(I’ve been a negligent blogger, I have fulfilled none of my promises, so this time I will make none, but I will say “Hey, maybe I’ll post something. Maybe.”)
Photo from This Must Be Designed By Idiot

Why is it always Tuesday on Tumblr?

(I’ve been a negligent blogger, I have fulfilled none of my promises, so this time I will make none, but I will say “Hey, maybe I’ll post something. Maybe.”)

Photo from This Must Be Designed By Idiot

Title: Martes Artist: El Trio de Omar Rodriguez Lopez 101 plays

Nasty rainy tuesday

—“there are more pressing matters. like taxidermy mouse beads”—

this is how I feel about midterms. Don’t worry folks—some sweet HalloWeek-themed bloody recipes, drinks, z000mbiieeeeee tutorials coming your way next week. I just need to write 8 more pages of essays, memorize ~30 paintings and statues, and read/study/know 300 pages of immunology first. nbd.

reblogged from Gumstrip-Kid

(via sonofthecailleach)

DIY - shark jaw necklace

The focus of this tutorial is on the technique of drilling into bone without a drill rather than the exact replication of the process by which I made this shark jaw chain necklace. Although I used a bull shark jaw, you could use any bone of manageable thickness. Keep in mind though that without a drill, you probably don’t want to tackle a bone from any animal larger than a skunk. Be creative and use this tutorial as a jumping off point to follow your own idea and make your own bone jewelry!


Materials and tools: a bone, round-nosed pliers, flat-nosed pliers, wire cutters, some length of chain, needle, thread (not pictured here), scissors, 2 jump rings, 1 lobster clasp. I purchased my shark jaw at Necromance in LA. I purchased my chain, jump rings and lobster clasps from Yadana Beads on Etsy.



Procedure:

1. Cracking the jaw: Crack the jaw between the upper and lower jaw just behind the thick line of bone separating the two. This creates the cleanest, most hidden line. I used wire-cutters but you could probably use scissors.

2. Making holes in the bone: Puncture the bone with a needle. Once you have punctured it, pull the needle back and forth to rub out the hole a bit with a back and forth motion. Repeat this with a few (3-5) needle pokes around (but RIGHT next to) the initial poke, then try to connect all these pokes using a slightly larger tool such as a safety pin, eyepin, headpin, etc. Keep using a larger tool until you achieve the desired size to fit your desired chain width. I left some of my holes at the size of a thick eyepin, but I enlarged some with the very tips of my threads scissors. NOTE: If you are having trouble puncturing an area of thicker bone, hold the needle with flat-nosed pliers to get some leverage. If you’re having a lot of trouble, hold the needle with pliers and use your other free hand to hammer the needle into the bone.

I repeated this technique for hole making to make 2 holes in the lateral corners of each jaw piece, for a total of 8 holes for the “decoration” portion of the chain. I then made two additional holes, one on either side of the upper jaw for the “necklace” portion of the chain.

3. Attaching the chains: Run the chains through the holes in whatever way you’d like and adjust to whatever length. I connected my two jaws with one long chain that connected all 8 “decoration” holes and made the first hanging loop. I then added more chains by connecting them to this original chain. Just to note, I used such a small thin chain that the rings were not openable, so I instead threaded short pieces of thread through loops of multiple chains, tied a few knots and then trimmed the thread super short. For the neck fastening I tied the chain to a jump ring and used a lobster clasp. All of this seems to work fine, but if you have a managable width of chain I would use normal ring opening techniques and jump rings.

Results:


Total cost: $5 for shark jaw + $5.85 for 10’ of chain + $0.06 for 2 jump rings + $0.10 for 1 lobster clasp = $11.01
Total time: 3 hours


Please send me pictures if you use this technique to make something! I’d love to hear about your projects. And as always, feel free to ask questions or post comments.

NOTE: I don’t think the thread method works very well-I’m probably just going to get some super tiny jump rings!

Recipe - stuffed acorn squash, stuffed pork chops, and maple brussel sprouts

For dinner my cousin and I made an acorn squash stuffed with a corn bread, pork sausage, celery, mushroom, raisin, and maple stuffing served along side a stuffed pork chop and maple syrup-roasted brussel sprouts. It was scrumptious.

The ingredients:
corn bread
sausage
celery (chopped)
cremini mushrooms (chopped)
raisins
chicken broth
maple syrup
acorn squash
parmesan (shredded)
pork chop
brussel sprouts
olive oil
sage
salt
pepper
butter

The stuffing:

  1. Saute sausage in a pan, breaking apart the meat into pieces. (No need for oil, the sausage will be fatty enough)
  2. Add crumbled corn bread. (I made my own jalapeño corn bread in a cast iron skillet because I was craving corn bread as well. Follow any recipe online for this, or buy your own. I recommend Alton Brown’s recipe.)
  3. Add chopped celery, cremini mushrooms and raisins as the corn bread begins to thicken.
  4. Once the mushrooms are cooked, add a splash of chicken broth and maple syrup.
  5. Turn off the heat after a few more minutes once everything smells delicious and looks golden browned.


The acorn squash:

  1. Cut the squash in half and scoop out the innards.
  2. Rub each half with olive oil, salt, pepper and powdered sage.
  3. Roast in a preheated 400 degree fahrenheit oven face down on a tray for about 40 minutes or until soft and a bit browned/golden on the face-down surface.
  4. Take the squash out of the oven and flip it over.
  5. Stuff the squash with a heaping amount of stuffing. Pack in as much as you can.
  6. Sprinkle some shredded parmesan on top.
  7. Return the stuffed squash to the oven for about 10 minutes or until the parmesan begins to melt.


The pork chop:

  1. Butterfly the pork chop so that the outside halves can lay flat in a pan.
  2. Flash saute the outside layer until it is browned.
  3. Fold the raw sides of the pork together and stuff it with the stuffing, then stake it with a toothpick. The stuffing will soak in the juices and help to tenderly cook the inside meat.
  4. Bake the pork chop on 400 until it is cooked (white throughout). This took me about 10 minutes.


The brussel sprouts:

  1. Quarter the brussel sprouts.
  2. Saute the brussel sprouts in olive oil and butter.
  3. Once they begin to brown add a splash of water quickly followed by a splash of maple syrup. Add a bit of chunky salt and cook for just a few more minutes.



The results:




This meal was absolutely delicious—the perfect combination of sweet and savory, and a great way to highlight some delicious Autumn flavors. Enjoy!

(Inspired by and adapted from the following recipes: Maple-Roasted Brussels Sprouts by Blissfully Delicious and Acorn squash stuffed with sausage and cornbread by 5&Spice)

worthdreamingof asked: Just wanted to say that I liked your post about menstrual cups and resuable cloth pads. :D I'm actually a recent "cloth pad convert," but I've known about the alternatives to disposables for quite awhile now. Anyway, yeah, awesome post. I really want to make my own cloth pads/liners soon, but I'm trying to see which tutorials are best for me first (since there's quite a lot!).

Thank you so much! Definitely check out shewhorunsintheforest, she has the best variety of tutorials I’ve seen on the internet. Also, if you have a purchased pad that work for you, you could always try to cut it up and make a pattern from it! Best of luck!!

Recipe - egg in a portobello mushroom

Ingredients: (for 1 stuffed mushroom)
1 portobello mushroom
1 egg
1/4 red onion (very thinly sliced)
1 green onion (thin circular slices)
chives (just a few, cut up)
3 tbsp. parmesan (shredded)
1 tbsp of olive oil
pepper and salt
sage (I used powdered spice)


Instructions:

  1. Preheat the oven to 320 degrees fahrenheit.
  2. Remove the stem from the portobello mushroom (or remove at the farmstand/store to save money if it’s purchased by the weight) and wash the mushroom.
  3. Put the mushroom on an oven safe pan or dish and drizzle about 1 tbsp of olive oil on the mushroom (bottom side up).
  4. Add the red onion, and some of the chives and green onion, and a sprinkle of sage.
  5. Carefully crack an egg into the top of the mushroom.
  6. Sprinkle shredded parmesan (I did about 3 tbsp because I’m a cheese addict, but you can do less) on the egg and add the remaining chives and green onion.
  7. Sprinkle some pepper and salt on top.
  8. Bake the egg-mushroom-cup in the oven for about 25 minutes, or until the egg white has turned from clear to white. 25 minutes was good in my dorm room oven, you might need less time if you have appliances that work.
  9. Serve with a piece of toasted baguette or bread





This was my first attempt at a full-on portobello for breakfast. I thought it was very yummy, but it was a little “mushroomy” and savory and intense for an early breakfast, so I recommend making this for a late breakfast or brunch!

(originally inspired by Ben’s Breakfast Stuffed Portobellos. Props!)

Download a printable PDF of this recipe.

DIY - reusable cloth pads and pantyliners

I don’t really get it, but apparently menstruation is taboo in our society. A little shed uterine tissue and blood is nothing to be ashamed or embarrassed about. Nor is the fact that your vagina bleeds once a month something to be quiet and “ladylike” about. I’m not saying shout from the roof tops when it’s “that time of the month” (a phrase almost as pathetic as he-who-shall-not-be-named), but own up to your menstruation, and in this ownership, recognize the responsibility that comes with it—the responsibility for your health and the earth. “What the hell is she talking about?” you may ask.

After much contemplation about whether this topic is “appropriate”, I have decided post this craft because 1) uterine blood ain’t nothing to be afraid of, 2) our unfounded prejudices, fears and visceral “yuck” reactions are antiquated and illogical, and 3) sustainability and health are important.

So, I’ll be blunt. Rather than using tampons and store-bought pads and pantyliners, I use a diva cup and homemade reusable cloth pads and pantyliners. There are a million websites that can explain to you why you too should make this choice, but I’ll give you an annotated list of my personal reasons:

  1. It is healthier: Diva cups have no risk of TSS because they are non-absorbent. (High-absorbency tampons enhance the bacterial growth of Staphylococcus aureus, which cause TSS) Furthermore, pantyliners can also promote bacterial growth and chafing with the paper-like material, sometimes causing Bacterial Vaginosis.
  2. It is cheaper: 1 diva cup ($32.49) + 5 pantyliners + 3 pads ($6.90) = $39.39… this is the total cost I have spent on my period since last September.
  3. It is more convenient: Diva cups can stay in for up to 12 hours easily in contrast to tampons which can last only up to 5 hours. Cloth pads and pantyliners can last much longer than the disposal ones as well since they are non-irritating. I change my Diva cup twice a day… when I wake up, and when I go to sleep.
  4. It is more comfortable: Tampons are uncomfortable and you feel that it’s up there. Diva cups sorta get sucked up with suction and you don’t even feel it after the first 15 minutes.
  5. It is less prone to accidents: The suction of the Diva cup prevents leaks and bleed throughs.
  6. It is more sustainable: Disposable pads, pantyliners and tampons waste paper. Diva cups and reusable pads and pantyliners do not. It’s that simple.


And so, I am hoping that this tutorial post inspires you to look into diva cups, and either make your own or purchase some reusable cloth pads and pantyliners.



Materials and tools:
black thread, fabric markers, fabric scissors, pins, snaps (only for pads) black nylon, black flannel, and another flannel color of your choice (I used rainbow). The nylon acts as a fluid-proof barrier and the flannel serves two purposes: to be soft and comfy, and to get frictionally stuck to your underwear. Organic flannel is also a plus. Just to note, these pads and pantyliners contain no batting or terry—they are not intended to be super-absorbent, but rather to be used on light days or over night when you don’t feel like using your diva cup. If you have a heavier flow, put between the nylon and flannel layers a layer of quilting batting or a layer of terry towel, either purchased from a fabric store or cut up from an old quilt or bath towel.

Pantyliner materials (below)

Pad materials (below)


Pantyliner procedure:

  1. Print out these templates from She Who Runs in the Forest, and cut them out. Just to note, She Who Runs in the Forest has many tutorials for a variety of pads and pantyliners. These two that I am posting are inspired by and adapted from her tutorials, but with slightly different construction and layers to match my own needs. I credit her completely with the template, and highly suggest you look at her website for more ideas.
  2. Trace the central long piece template onto one piece of black nylon, one piece of black flannel and one piece of rainbow flannel leaving an extra 1/4” around the entire thing for the seam allowance. Cut them out.
  3. Pin the 3 layers together in the following sandwich: black nylon, black flannel, inward facing rainbow flannel (right side in).

4. Sew around the edges leaving about a 1” gap. Trace the curves very carefully, you don’t want jagged angles here.

5. Turn it inside out. Make sure to smooth out all the curves.

6. Hand sew the small gap with black thread.

7. Iron to flatten it out.

8. Sew around the entire pantyliner.

9. Double-sew (stitch twice over the same line) three lines down the center of the pantyliner to reinforce the structure.

10. To use them, place them black side up (color side down) on your underwear. They will stick on their own without moving around.

Pads procedure:

  1. Follow the same procedure as for the pantyliner outlined above, but instead use a sandwich of two pieces of black flannel and do not sew around the entire thing after ironing it.
  2. Trace the winged piece onto one piece of black nylon and two pieces of rainbow flannel leaving an extra 1/4” around the entire thing for the seam allowance. Cut them out.
  3. Pin the 3 layers together in the following sandwich: black nylon + two pieces of inward facing rainbow flannel (so that the right sides are touching).
  4. Sew around the edges leaving about a 1” gap. Trace the curves very carefully, you don’t want jagged angles here.
  5. Turn it inside out. Make sure to smooth out all the curves.
  6. Hand sew the small gap with black thread.
  7. Iron to flatten it out.
  8. Sew around the entire pad.
  9. Place and pin the black pantyliner onto the pad. Sew it around the edges.
  10. Sew on two snaps onto the wings. First sew the two bottom snaps, then line them up with the second wing and use a fabric marker to dot where they should go, then sew the two top snaps. See the pictures below for placement. 
  11. To use it, put the black side up in your underwear (color side down) and use the snaps to fasten the wings underneath your underwear.

Results:




Washing instructions: Wash them once before you wear them. Once you’ve used it, rinse it in cold water to get anything crazy/particulate/solid/super-liquidy off, hang it to dry, then throw it in your normal laundry with your clothes.

Total time: 30 minutes per pad or pantyliner

Total cost: $2.40 for 0.5 yards of black nylon + $3.00 for 0.5 yards of black flannel + $1.50 for 0.5 yards of rainbow flannel = $6.90

I hope this has inspired you, but if you lack a sewing machine or the motivation to make your own, you can also look online at some stores which sell reusable pads and pantyliners, like Party Pants Pads and Luna Pads. And if I haven’t cracked your nut at all and you still are a bit grossed out by the concept, check out Luna Pads’ “ewwww” manifesto to hear a lengthier explanation of why it’s not gross. Like always, comment if you have questions!

bevdivision asked: Hey, I'm really desperate for a Heyoka necklace...I saw it online at Free People and wow it's pricy! Do you accept orders if I ask you to custom make me one? Is that possible? Haha

I’m on a selling hiatus until I graduate from college (contact me in May if you’re still interested?!) but I recommend you try to make your own!! It’s honestly super doable no matter your craft background, it’s just a bit time-intensive!

rushinqt asked: you know that white lace dress you made ?? how did you do the top? It looks so cute!! I want to make a top for halloween.

I assume you are referring to this?

(See the rest of the dress here.)

I cut out the cups from an old bra (you could also buy cups) and pinned them to my dress form as the base and structure of the bodice. I then used long strips of thin eyelet (about 1” thick) to construct the layers of the bust. I started the first layer (the top) in the back, led it upward to curve over the breast to make the top of the bust line for the left breast, then led it under the right breast (to form the bottom layer for this breast) and to the bottom of the side back. I then repeated this slightly lower on the left and then slightly on top with the right, and so on and so forth for the entire thing. I was pinning like crazy the entire time, and making sure that on the right side I tucked the bottom of each upper piece UNDER the eyelet scallops of the piece below it. Just to note, after the center horizontal line, the pieces on the left start curving under the left breast then curving over the right breast. This makes this curved, but layered effect, and ends with the last few pieces crossing over from the upper right breast to the lower left breast. I then covered the bottom layer with the same eyelet but with the scallop directed in the opposite direction to finish the bottom. In the end I started pulling out each individual pin from the dress form and re-pinning just the fabric so that I could take it off the dress form. I then sewed thin lines horizontally over the entire bust following the eyelet strips.

Just to clarify the origin of each strip, look at this picture below. By staggering each strip slightly, it creates a nice trapezoidal shape for the side-bust.

Hopefully this helps!! Please let me know if anything is unclear or if there is something else I can help you with!