Why is it always Tuesday on Tumblr?
(I’ve been a negligent blogger, I have fulfilled none of my promises, so this time I will make none, but I will say “Hey, maybe I’ll post something. Maybe.”)
Photo from This Must Be Designed By Idiot
Why is it always Tuesday on Tumblr?
(I’ve been a negligent blogger, I have fulfilled none of my promises, so this time I will make none, but I will say “Hey, maybe I’ll post something. Maybe.”)
Photo from This Must Be Designed By Idiot
Nasty rainy tuesday

this is how I feel about midterms. Don’t worry folks—some sweet HalloWeek-themed bloody recipes, drinks, z000mbiieeeeee tutorials coming your way next week. I just need to write 8 more pages of essays, memorize ~30 paintings and statues, and read/study/know 300 pages of immunology first. nbd.
reblogged from Gumstrip-Kid
(via magickwithoutcorpus)
The focus of this tutorial is on the technique of drilling into bone without a drill rather than the exact replication of the process by which I made this shark jaw chain necklace. Although I used a bull shark jaw, you could use any bone of manageable thickness. Keep in mind though that without a drill, you probably don’t want to tackle a bone from any animal larger than a skunk. Be creative and use this tutorial as a jumping off point to follow your own idea and make your own bone jewelry!
Materials and tools: a bone, round-nosed pliers, flat-nosed pliers, wire cutters, some length of chain, needle, thread (not pictured here), scissors, 2 jump rings, 1 lobster clasp. I purchased my shark jaw at Necromance in LA. I purchased my chain, jump rings and lobster clasps from Yadana Beads on Etsy.

Procedure:
1. Cracking the jaw: Crack the jaw between the upper and lower jaw just behind the thick line of bone separating the two. This creates the cleanest, most hidden line. I used wire-cutters but you could probably use scissors.
2. Making holes in the bone: Puncture the bone with a needle. Once you have punctured it, pull the needle back and forth to rub out the hole a bit with a back and forth motion. Repeat this with a few (3-5) needle pokes around (but RIGHT next to) the initial poke, then try to connect all these pokes using a slightly larger tool such as a safety pin, eyepin, headpin, etc. Keep using a larger tool until you achieve the desired size to fit your desired chain width. I left some of my holes at the size of a thick eyepin, but I enlarged some with the very tips of my threads scissors. NOTE: If you are having trouble puncturing an area of thicker bone, hold the needle with flat-nosed pliers to get some leverage. If you’re having a lot of trouble, hold the needle with pliers and use your other free hand to hammer the needle into the bone.


I repeated this technique for hole making to make 2 holes in the lateral corners of each jaw piece, for a total of 8 holes for the “decoration” portion of the chain. I then made two additional holes, one on either side of the upper jaw for the “necklace” portion of the chain.

3. Attaching the chains: Run the chains through the holes in whatever way you’d like and adjust to whatever length. I connected my two jaws with one long chain that connected all 8 “decoration” holes and made the first hanging loop. I then added more chains by connecting them to this original chain. Just to note, I used such a small thin chain that the rings were not openable, so I instead threaded short pieces of thread through loops of multiple chains, tied a few knots and then trimmed the thread super short. For the neck fastening I tied the chain to a jump ring and used a lobster clasp. All of this seems to work fine, but if you have a managable width of chain I would use normal ring opening techniques and jump rings.
Results:



Total cost: $5 for shark jaw + $5.85 for 10’ of chain + $0.06 for 2 jump rings + $0.10 for 1 lobster clasp = $11.01
Total time: 3 hours
Please send me pictures if you use this technique to make something! I’d love to hear about your projects. And as always, feel free to ask questions or post comments.
NOTE: I don’t think the thread method works very well-I’m probably just going to get some super tiny jump rings!

For dinner my cousin and I made an acorn squash stuffed with a corn bread, pork sausage, celery, mushroom, raisin, and maple stuffing served along side a stuffed pork chop and maple syrup-roasted brussel sprouts. It was scrumptious.
The ingredients:
corn bread
sausage
celery (chopped)
cremini mushrooms (chopped)
raisins
chicken broth
maple syrup
acorn squash
parmesan (shredded)
pork chop
brussel sprouts
olive oil
sage
salt
pepper
butter
The stuffing:


The acorn squash:

The pork chop:
The brussel sprouts:

The results:




This meal was absolutely delicious—the perfect combination of sweet and savory, and a great way to highlight some delicious Autumn flavors. Enjoy!
(Inspired by and adapted from the following recipes: Maple-Roasted Brussels Sprouts by Blissfully Delicious and Acorn squash stuffed with sausage and cornbread by 5&Spice)
Thank you so much! Definitely check out shewhorunsintheforest, she has the best variety of tutorials I’ve seen on the internet. Also, if you have a purchased pad that work for you, you could always try to cut it up and make a pattern from it! Best of luck!!
Ingredients: (for 1 stuffed mushroom)
1 portobello mushroom
1 egg
1/4 red onion (very thinly sliced)
1 green onion (thin circular slices)
chives (just a few, cut up)
3 tbsp. parmesan (shredded)
1 tbsp of olive oil
pepper and salt
sage (I used powdered spice)
Instructions:




This was my first attempt at a full-on portobello for breakfast. I thought it was very yummy, but it was a little “mushroomy” and savory and intense for an early breakfast, so I recommend making this for a late breakfast or brunch!
(originally inspired by Ben’s Breakfast Stuffed Portobellos. Props!)

I don’t really get it, but apparently menstruation is taboo in our society. A little shed uterine tissue and blood is nothing to be ashamed or embarrassed about. Nor is the fact that your vagina bleeds once a month something to be quiet and “ladylike” about. I’m not saying shout from the roof tops when it’s “that time of the month” (a phrase almost as pathetic as he-who-shall-not-be-named), but own up to your menstruation, and in this ownership, recognize the responsibility that comes with it—the responsibility for your health and the earth. “What the hell is she talking about?” you may ask.
After much contemplation about whether this topic is “appropriate”, I have decided post this craft because 1) uterine blood ain’t nothing to be afraid of, 2) our unfounded prejudices, fears and visceral “yuck” reactions are antiquated and illogical, and 3) sustainability and health are important.
So, I’ll be blunt. Rather than using tampons and store-bought pads and pantyliners, I use a diva cup and homemade reusable cloth pads and pantyliners. There are a million websites that can explain to you why you too should make this choice, but I’ll give you an annotated list of my personal reasons:
And so, I am hoping that this tutorial post inspires you to look into diva cups, and either make your own or purchase some reusable cloth pads and pantyliners.
Materials and tools: black thread, fabric markers, fabric scissors, pins, snaps (only for pads) black nylon, black flannel, and another flannel color of your choice (I used rainbow). The nylon acts as a fluid-proof barrier and the flannel serves two purposes: to be soft and comfy, and to get frictionally stuck to your underwear. Organic flannel is also a plus. Just to note, these pads and pantyliners contain no batting or terry—they are not intended to be super-absorbent, but rather to be used on light days or over night when you don’t feel like using your diva cup. If you have a heavier flow, put between the nylon and flannel layers a layer of quilting batting or a layer of terry towel, either purchased from a fabric store or cut up from an old quilt or bath towel.
Pantyliner materials (below)

Pad materials (below)

Pantyliner procedure:

4. Sew around the edges leaving about a 1” gap. Trace the curves very carefully, you don’t want jagged angles here.


5. Turn it inside out. Make sure to smooth out all the curves.

6. Hand sew the small gap with black thread.


7. Iron to flatten it out.

8. Sew around the entire pantyliner.

9. Double-sew (stitch twice over the same line) three lines down the center of the pantyliner to reinforce the structure.


10. To use them, place them black side up (color side down) on your underwear. They will stick on their own without moving around.
Pads procedure:
Results:






Washing instructions: Wash them once before you wear them. Once you’ve used it, rinse it in cold water to get anything crazy/particulate/solid/super-liquidy off, hang it to dry, then throw it in your normal laundry with your clothes.
Total time: 30 minutes per pad or pantyliner
Total cost: $2.40 for 0.5 yards of black nylon + $3.00 for 0.5 yards of black flannel + $1.50 for 0.5 yards of rainbow flannel = $6.90
I hope this has inspired you, but if you lack a sewing machine or the motivation to make your own, you can also look online at some stores which sell reusable pads and pantyliners, like Party Pants Pads and Luna Pads. And if I haven’t cracked your nut at all and you still are a bit grossed out by the concept, check out Luna Pads’ “ewwww” manifesto to hear a lengthier explanation of why it’s not gross. Like always, comment if you have questions!
I’m on a selling hiatus until I graduate from college (contact me in May if you’re still interested?!) but I recommend you try to make your own!! It’s honestly super doable no matter your craft background, it’s just a bit time-intensive!
I assume you are referring to this?
(See the rest of the dress here.)
I cut out the cups from an old bra (you could also buy cups) and pinned them to my dress form as the base and structure of the bodice. I then used long strips of thin eyelet (about 1” thick) to construct the layers of the bust. I started the first layer (the top) in the back, led it upward to curve over the breast to make the top of the bust line for the left breast, then led it under the right breast (to form the bottom layer for this breast) and to the bottom of the side back. I then repeated this slightly lower on the left and then slightly on top with the right, and so on and so forth for the entire thing. I was pinning like crazy the entire time, and making sure that on the right side I tucked the bottom of each upper piece UNDER the eyelet scallops of the piece below it. Just to note, after the center horizontal line, the pieces on the left start curving under the left breast then curving over the right breast. This makes this curved, but layered effect, and ends with the last few pieces crossing over from the upper right breast to the lower left breast. I then covered the bottom layer with the same eyelet but with the scallop directed in the opposite direction to finish the bottom. In the end I started pulling out each individual pin from the dress form and re-pinning just the fabric so that I could take it off the dress form. I then sewed thin lines horizontally over the entire bust following the eyelet strips.
Just to clarify the origin of each strip, look at this picture below. By staggering each strip slightly, it creates a nice trapezoidal shape for the side-bust.

Hopefully this helps!! Please let me know if anything is unclear or if there is something else I can help you with!